I walk a kilometer every day. Not outside but inside, in my patio. I figure the perimeter of my patio to be 25 meters long so I do 40 turns or more as I listen to the radio stations from France, the US or Mexico. But walking in my patio, as nice and sunny as it is, is rather boring, visuals wise.
Before Corona, I used to walk everyday, in the afternoons. I loved just randomly picking my turns at corners or going up streets I'd never walked in before. There is so much to see in this city. It is so eclectic and full of different people, shops, places to eat, activities of its citizens that it seems to be forever evolving, changing, yet, in some ways, staying the same.It seems as if the word "eclectic" was invented for Mexico City.
The dictionary defines "eclectic" as "deriving ideas, style, or taste from a broad and diverse range of sources." This could be the motto of the city.
I've always said that in cities such as Paris or New York, you can find a café, a restaurant, a fruit or flower shop, a bar and an apartment house all in the same block. But in Mexico City you can find a block such as that AND one where there is a beautiful mansion, a dry cleaners in an open to the street basement, a barbershop, a couple of restaurant-bars, a shop that sells vinyl records and expensive turntables, a bakery run by two kids that consists of an oven and a steel wire rack for the bread, and a house that looks like the local subsidiary of the city dump, all in one block. I'm not making this up because there is such a block close by.
This city is like that: clinging to its past and adopting the new with equal enthusiasm. The guy in the open basement has run his dry cleaners there for decades, the kids in the record shop or bakery have been there for a couple of months.
That's what makes this city so interesting: you never know what you're going to find when you turn a corner. And THAT is what I miss about my afternoon walks. This city adapts and adopts with an intensity, a velocity that amazes. Yet, at the same time, it defends its old, staid ways with ferocity. So this mixture of the old and the new come together, and many times clash, sometimes in subtle, sometime incredible ways.
As an example, I like to cite the area around one of the busiest subway stations in the world, Insurgentes (said to be only surpassed by Moscow Central). It is surrounded by the overpasses of some of the busiest avenues of the city. As one goes over one of its overpasses, one can't help but notice that the edge of the overpass comes within almost touching distance of a few houses and apartment buildings. It is obvious that people live in them because there's the occasional potted plant in a balcony or a string of festive lights at Christmas time. I can't even imagine what it must be like to live in such a place, with thousands of cars whizzing by, and smog that must be as thick as a London fog. Yet, there they are. Obviously the owners or inhabitants refused to move or give up those buildings, stubbornly defying the noise, dust, and smog. That sort of defines the character of the city.
A block away from where I live, there is a six story apartment building that was damaged by the earthquake of a couple of years ago. Most of the lodgers moved out when repairs to the building were started but a couple did not, the most prominent of whom is the guy that lives on the sixth floor. His apartment is built like a penthouse, with open spaces and wide corridors. Before the pandemic, he used to have parties every Saturday night. There would be lots of people dancing to live music and the place would be lit up with strings of colored lights. One could hear the music and laughter all the way to my place. No pandemic or earthquake or any natural or man-made disaster is going to make this guy move away. I can see him from our rooftop exercising and receiving deliveries of cases of beer. He's probably getting ready to have a party as soon as the lock down is lifted.
Elsewhere close to where I live, also, there is a beautiful mansion with manicured lawns and rose bushes. Right next to it is the uglies house in the neighborhood. It is unpainted, dirty with the ironwork of its fence rusty, its windows dirty. and a rusting 1972 Volkswagen in the garage. The rusty ironwork gate that protects the vintage car has a rusting sign that warns against parking and blocking the gate, even though the car looks like it hasn't moved in ages. Yet, there they are, coexisting as if caught in a time warp.
And its like that all over the city. The modern and the new next to the old and traditional. The comfortable and safe next to the unhealthiest place to live; a modern, beautiful restaurant and across the street a street side taqueria. I think that in a city with such a huge population (more than twenty million), if you want to create a personal space, you have to ignore what is around you. You can't physically create a haven so you ignore what's around you, pretend its not there, and live within your personally created space. And in a city beset by all kinds of challenges--earthquakes, over populating, lack of water, an international airport that is a disaster waiting to happen, smog, and crime, the people have to be resilient to not only survive but to thrive, as it has been doing for more than four hundred years.
This keeps the city in an ever-changing state. One of the things that I have always said about New York and Paris, to name the foreign cities that I like best, is that there is always some construction or remodeling going on. There is too here in Mexico City but unlike Paris or New York, there is also a lot of private, personal remodeling going on, which is visible, unlike those other cities. A lot of it has to do with the forces of Nature: in the last earthquake a lot of local buildings were damaged so some were torn down and had to be replaced but a lot of them are being remodeled and strengthened in the hope they'll survive the next big earthquake.
And then there is the personal stuff. Since I've come to live here I have seen several houses of the neighborhood transformed into apartments by the owners, two bookstores established in the garages of privately owned homes, a piano repair shop whose owner lives in a floor above bought out a car repair garage so he could expand, rooftops turned into social spaces because of the corona virus, yes, but also because of people needing more space for family and friends. People here are quick to adapt to new circumstances, no matter what they are. It seems that this eclectic coexistence is the secret to the success of the city in surviving the challenges life throws at it.
Getting back to my main point, I can't wait to be able to go out because if walking around was interesting before, I imagine that the rebirth of the neighborhood after the long lock down we have suffered, will have a lot of surprises in store for me.